Cala Moraig: from an unspoilt coastline to a mass spot
The cove born from the dynamite of the urban development of the seventies.
For decades, the Moraig Creek, at Cumbre del Sol, has been considered a natural paradise in the Marina Alta. Their crystalline waters, its spectacular Cova dels Arcs and surrounding cliffs have turned it into one of the most photographed corners of the Costa Blanca. However its true origin remains in the memory of the residents of the town and nearby municipalities.
Testimonials from the town's elders and a few photographs from that period show the origin of the famous cove. There is little documentation on it, but in the photographs taken by Pedro Cascales, the architect who participated in the planning of the Puig Llorença, it can be verified that the cove did not exist as we know it today but rather there was only a cliff and a terraced mountain landscape. It was the developer who decided to blow up part of the land to offer property buyers of Cumbre del Sol urbanization a practically private beach.
In 2017, the exhibition "A look enrere" in Benitatxell, rescued those photographs of the Puig Llorença unspoilt landscape in the seventies wich were donated by the architect Pedro Casales.
The origin of the Moraig is inseparable from the real estate boom of the seventies. The sale of plots of the mountain, started in 1973, needed a commercial hook. The formula was to open a non-existent space to the sea through explosions that left a vertical cut still visible in the landscape. It was later filled with stones and a road access was laid out.
At that time, the operation was not seen as controversial as it would likely be considered today. Spain was experiencing the rise of tourism and towns like Benitatxell, until then eminently agricultural, saw in these initiatives an opportunity for modernity and prosperity.
From a "private" cove to a crowded space
For years, the Moraig Creek was primarily a space for residents. In the nineties began to become popular, especially after the opening of a restaurant next to the cove and the consolidation of a nudist zone.
The reggae festival which was held at the end of that decade put Moraig on the map. Since the beginning of the 2000s, and especially after the pandemic, the cove has become a mass destiny. Nowadays, cars in convoy trying to access the surrounding areas are common in summer, which has forced the Town Hall to implement parking fees, 15 euros per vehicle, with exemptions for registered residents.
The parking lot that swallowed the sea
Until 2020, a parking lot on the shore itself was rebuilt after each storm. The storm Gloria, with its devastation, marked a turning point. The Directorate-General for Coasts forced the elimination of the esplanade and the beach bars, imposing a partial renaturation of the area.
Since then, the area has gradually regained some of its wilder appearance, albeit with limited access and services, becoming a highly visited enclave.
The story of the origins of the Moraig Creek has remained for a long time in a background, overshadowed by the idyllic image of its waters and its privileged surroundings. "Even on tourism websites and blogs it is still presented as a natural cove, when in reality it is not," says Bisquert.
The councilor acknowledges that the council itself hadn't paid attention to the issue: "We thought it was something that was already known. But we've found that's not the case; even visitors believe the Moraig has always been there."
The creek remains a geological wonder with an undeniable appeal but its history actually reflects the clash between urban planning, tourism and landscape, a reflection of what happened in many corners of the Mediterranean coast in the 20th century. Nowadays, with a greater environmental awareness, such a project would be unthinkable. But the past is what it is, and knowing that is essential to understanding not only the Moraig Creek, but also the tourist and social identity of the region.
Fascinating history and extremely sad as even now with the pedalos, the umbrellas and the kayak business the supposed wooden walkway is always obstructed by clients for these businesses. The stretch of sand/ beach is already small but these businesses make it even more crowded. This beautiful cove has become so overcrowded and stuffed you can’t really enjoy the sound of the sea as someone’s music is blaring in your ear right next to you. These businesses should be banned!difficult to access . Great that the cove is well visited but if 15 years ago when I moved to Cumbre I had known VAPF and others were going to carve up the mountain the way they’ve done I would’ve never bought my property. This is not development, it’s greed and destruction!
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